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Troubleshooting

Fire Pit Won't Light

Gas fire pits are simple machines with a few failure points: gas supply, the burner, ignition and the safety sensor. Working through them in order usually finds the problem fast.

Troubleshooting ยท Updated November 2026

Know your ignition type

Gas fire pits light in one of a few ways, and the troubleshooting depends on which:

  • Match lit: a key valve or knob and a burner you light with a long lighter. No electronics.
  • Spark ignition: a push-button or battery igniter that sparks at the burner. Often paired with a thermocouple safety valve that requires holding the knob in for a while.
  • Electronic ignition: a control module, often with a switch, remote or app, and a flame sensor. Needs power or batteries.

Symptoms and likely causes

SymptomLikely causes
No gas sound at allTank empty or valve closed, supply shutoff off, tripped regulator, kinked line
Gas flows, no sparkDead battery, broken igniter wire, electrode wet or out of position, failed module
Spark, but gas won't catchToo little gas reaching the spark, wet media, electrode too far from gas, wind
Lights, goes out when you release the knobThermocouple not heated enough, dirty or failing thermocouple
Lights, goes out after a few minutesThermocouple, wind, low gas supply, tank freezing on propane
Weak or partial flameSpider webs or debris in burner, low tank, undersized supply, clogged ports
Lights only on one sideClogged burner ports, uneven media covering the burner

Step-by-step checks

  1. 1

    Confirm gas supply

    For propane, check the tank level and that the valve is open. For natural gas, make sure the supply shutoff is fully open (handle in line with the pipe). If other gas appliances work, the house supply is fine.

  2. 2

    Reset a propane regulator

    Turn the fire pit off, close the tank, disconnect the regulator for a minute, reconnect, then open the tank slowly. This clears the flow-limiting device that can trip if the tank is opened too fast.

  3. 3

    Check batteries and spark

    Replace the igniter or module battery. In a dark spot, press the igniter and look for a spark at the electrode. No spark points to the battery, wire or electrode.

  4. 4

    Dry and clear the media

    After rain or sprinklers, glass, lava rock and stones hold water. Let them dry, or remove some media from around the igniter and pilot so the gas and spark can meet.

  5. 5

    Look for blockages

    With the gas off and the pit cool, remove media around the burner. Look for spider webs, leaves, ash and insect nests, especially at the pilot and around the thermocouple.

  6. 6

    Hold the knob longer

    Thermocouple systems need the knob held in for a while after lighting (often 30 seconds to a minute) so the sensor heats up. Follow the manual.

Thermocouples and flame sensors

Most fire pits with spark ignition have a thermocouple: a small metal rod that sits in the flame. When hot, it generates a tiny current that holds the gas valve open. If it's dirty, bent out of the flame, loose at the valve connection or simply worn out, the valve shuts the gas off and the fire goes out. Electronic systems use a flame sensor that does the same job.

Thermocouples and flame sensors wear out over time and get coated in soot and corrosion. Replacing them is a common, straightforward repair, but it involves the gas valve and should be done by someone who knows how to leak test afterward. See thermocouple and safety valve repair.

Wind, ash and LA weather

Fire pits are open to the weather, and wind is a common cause of a pilot or flame that won't stay lit, especially on hillside decks and during Santa Ana wind events. A glass wind guard helps with everyday breezes, but in red flag conditions it's wise not to run an outdoor fire feature at all. After a wind event, ash and debris often end up in the burner pan; our Santa Ana winds and ash guide covers cleanup.

Call a technician if

  • You smell gas at any point
  • The pit lights with a loud whoosh or delayed ignition
  • The thermocouple or sensor needs replacing
  • No gas flows and the supply checks out
  • The control module, wiring or valve looks damaged
  • You see chewed wires or rodent nests
  • The burner or pan is corroded through

Common questions

Why does my fire pit only light after a few tries?

Often the igniter electrode is slightly out of position, partly covered by media, or wet. A clean, dry electrode with the right gap usually lights on the first try.

Can I use more media to make the fire look bigger?

Use the amount the manufacturer recommends. Too much media over the burner can smother the flame and cause poor combustion.

Do you service fire pit tables and built-in fire pits?

Yes, both. See our fire pit service page.

Still won't light?

Send a short video of what happens when you try to light it, and we'll tell you what we think is wrong and set up a visit.

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