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Grill guide · Care & how-to

Getting Your Grill Ready for Summer

In Los Angeles a lot of grills get used year-round, but summer is when they get worked hardest: bigger crowds, longer cooks, holiday weekends. A couple of hours in May saves you from a grill that won't light with twelve people waiting on Fourth of July.

Care & how-to · Updated November 2026

Start two or three weeks ahead

The best time to do this is late April or May, a few weeks before you need the grill for anything important. If you find a bad igniter, a cracked hose, or a burner that's rusted through, that gives you time to get parts or book a repair. The week before Memorial Day and the days before July 4th are when every grill shop and repair service in the city is busiest.

Safety checks first

  1. 1

    Look at the gas supply

    For propane, check the tank for dents, heavy rust or a damaged valve, and look at the date stamped on the collar. Standard 20 lb cylinders need to be requalified 12 years after manufacture, and most exchange programs won't take them after that. For natural gas, find the shutoff valve and make sure it turns.

  2. 2

    Inspect the hose and regulator

    Bend the hose gently along its length. Cracks, stiffness, blisters or chew marks mean replace it. Look for corrosion on the regulator and fittings.

  3. 3

    Soap-test the connections

    With the burner knobs off, open the gas and brush soapy water on every connection from the tank or supply to the grill's manifold. Bubbles mean a leak. Our step-by-step soap test guide explains it in detail.

  4. 4

    Check for spiders and nests

    Pull the grates and heat plates and look at the burners. Shine a flashlight into the burner inlets at the front if you can. Webs, egg sacs or nesting material need to be cleared before lighting.

Cleaning before the season

If the grill hasn't had a deep clean in six months or more, now is the time.

  • Grates scraped, soaked and scrubbed
  • Heat plates or flavorizer bars cleaned and checked for holes
  • Firebox scraped down, with old grease removed from the bottom
  • Burners removed, ports cleared, venturi tubes brushed out
  • Grease tray and drip pan emptied, cleaned and relined
  • Inside of the hood scraped so carbon flakes don't fall into food
  • Exterior stainless degreased and polished
  • Cabinet and drawers below a built-in checked for droppings and spills

Test that everything works

  1. 1

    Igniters

    Try each burner's igniter. You want a sharp spark and a light within a couple of seconds. If it clicks but won't catch, try a fresh battery in the ignition module first, then check that the electrode is clean and close to the burner.

  2. 2

    Flame check

    Light every burner on high and look. Flames should be blue, steady and even along the whole burner, with at most small yellow tips. Large yellow, lazy or gapped flames mean blocked ports, a spider in the tube, or a worn burner.

  3. 3

    Heat-up test

    Close the hood with everything on high and time how long it takes to reach 500 to 600 degrees. If it's much slower than you remember, something is restricting gas flow or heat.

  4. 4

    Accessories

    Run the rotisserie motor and burner, the sear or infrared burner, side burners, and interior lights. These get used less and fail quietly.

Quick troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeGuide to read
Clicks but won't lightDead battery, dirty or misaligned electrode, blocked burnerGrill won't light
Low flame on every burner (propane)Regulator in bypass mode after opening the tank too fastLow flame and weak heat
One burner weak or yellowSpider web or debris in the venturi tubeSpiders in burner tubes
Hot and cold zonesClogged ports or failing burnerUneven heat
Constant flare-upsGrease buildup on heat plates and in the fireboxFlare-ups and grease fires

Low flame after reconnecting a propane tank

This catches a lot of people every spring. Modern propane regulators have a safety device that limits flow if it senses a leak, and opening the tank valve while burner knobs are on (or opening it too quickly) can trip it. The fix: turn all burner knobs off, close the tank valve, disconnect the regulator from the tank, wait a minute, reconnect, open the tank valve slowly all the way, then light one burner at a time.

Still weak after that? The low flame and won't light pages go through the other usual causes.

Stock up before the busy weekends

  • A spare full propane tank, so you're not running out mid-cook.
  • A fresh AA or AAA battery for the ignition module.
  • Grease tray liners for your grill.
  • A bristle-free grill brush or a new wire brush (inspect old ones for loose bristles).
  • A working fire extinguisher rated for grease (Class B or ABC) within reach of the grill.

If anything on the list above turned up a problem you'd rather not tackle, a grill inspection or professional cleaning before summer takes care of it, and common parts like igniters, burners and hoses for popular models come with the tech.

Common questions

My grill was used all winter. Do I still need to do this?

The safety and flame checks, yes. Grills used year-round are less likely to have spiders, but they accumulate more grease, so the cleaning matters even more.

How do I know if my burners need replacing?

Holes, cracks, rust flakes, ports widened into slots, or flames that stay uneven after cleaning. See our guide on signs burners need replacing.

Can I just turn it on high for an hour to clean it?

Burn-off helps the grates, but it won't clean the grease tray, the firebox floor or the burners, and on a very greasy grill it can start a grease fire. Clean first.

When should I book a pre-summer cleaning?

April or early May is ideal. The weeks right before Memorial Day and July 4th fill up quickly.

Get it done before the cookouts start

Call or text, or send a couple of photos of your grill and we'll get back to you with a quote and a time.

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